It’s no secret that fashion ebbs and flows. Today, we’ll highlight some trends in the world of contemporary fashion that originally got their start as trends or aspects of classic style.
1. Broader Silhouettes
Wider lapels, square shoulders, and even flare trousers are all elements of menswear that have had their moments in the spotlight. So, while the past couple of decades have lasered in on slim skinny fits, it appears the pendulum is finally swinging back in the opposite direction and looser more structured jackets and trousers are getting more attention, again.
Generally, these sorts of silhouettes have been associated with periods that broadly projected wealth and abundance like the late 1930s, late 1940s, early 1950s, late 1970s, late 1980s, and early 1990s.
This is an exciting trend for fans of the Golden Age of Menswear since these styles were much more difficult to find off-the-rack until recently. Let’s just hope they become more 1930s, less 1980s, because some of these modern takes on breadth are just as exaggerated as the skinny take on slim.
When Fashion Trends & Classic Style Align
2. Pleated Pants
Pleated versus flat front pants is always a contentious topic, with strong advocates on either side of the debate. We’ll refrain from taking a side today. But, as silhouettes loosen, pleats inevitably become practical, again. Since they are synonymous with broader silhouettes, we’re even seeing them used on more casual pants. It’s important to note there’s a big difference between 80s and 90s pleats versus classic ones.
The 80s and 90s exaggerated them to the point of being a trend. We’ll see how far these new trends go, especially since they seem to mainly be appearing on shorts. But, there are some classic options still out there.
3. Trouser Cuffs
Where pleats go, cuffs shortly follow. You can have cuffs on flat-front pants, but they go hand-in-hand with pleats. The main reason is that extra fabric needs more drape in order to create a cleaner silhouette.
Cuffs add weight for a more
Structured look
Cuffs help to add more weight at the bottom and create that appearance of structure desired in this style. It’s also a look closely associated with the laidback, Quiet Luxury appearance, which is one of the main reasons cuff trousers are now trending again.
For us, this is a welcome change from how tight 2010s silhouettes were. But, as always, whether to opt for elements like pleats, cuffs, and the like should be dictated by your tastes and classic style conventions, not fashion.
4. Corduroys
Corduroys have been a major beneficiary of the popularization of the Old Money look and became something of a trend item by those trying to emulate the style, but they’ve always remained popular with classic style aficionados and even been something we’ve taken particular interest in. But this isn’t a new idea, as the pants have been taken a particular interest in at multiple points in history.
The first of these was in the 1920s during the first Preppy collegiate craze; here they were worn in rebellion since they were originally seen as working pants; then, in the 1960s, during the Prep Revival, and in the 1970s and early 80s, as part of those eras interest in uniquely textured clothing.
The Preppy Style & Clothes Primer
5. Trouser Side Adjusters
Waist adjusters were a popular option in the first half of the 20th century to aid with trouser fit and keeping them up and were associated with many well-dressed men like Cary Grant.
This style fell out of favor as belts became more popular and as pants became more mass-manufactured as opposed to made by a tailor. However, they’re commonly associated today with bespoke clothing, and many MTM companies offer these sorts of options on their clothing as a sort of signifier or a secret handshake to show they’re in the know.
In an effort to make clothing appearing more unique and bespoke, many trend chasers have adjusted their views on side adjusters and begun to favor them over suspenders and belts.
6. Double-breasted Jackets
Double-breasted jackets never fully went away, but we’re seeing more and more of them pop up these days. While there’s no denying single-breasted jackets are still the much more popular option, double-breasted jackets benefit from a looser silhouette and are a natural choice for these trending styles since the overlapping fabric makes for a drapey cut, and we’re even seeing more casual double-breasted garments like sweaters.
DB Jackets exude Wealth with its
Fabric & Drape
Rather like the broader silhouette generally, double-breasted suits are associated with excess and abundance, and they’re a much more subtle indicator of wealth than covering yourself in designer logos. As such, they are also seen as part of the Old Money aesthetic thanks to their more vintage feeling design, especially thanks to movies like the Kingsman series.
We’ll see if they stay in more classic cuts, like 6 by 2 models with peak lapels, over the notch lapel 4 by 1 models that the 70s and 90s overused as a trend.
“Old Money” is NOT the Same as “Classic Style”
7. Surgeon’s Cuffs
Surgeon cuffs, where the sleeve buttons are actually functional, are a feature that was last commonly utilized in the early 20th century, where surgeons would literally use them so they could keep their jackets on while conducting surgery. Talk about commitment!
But rather like waist adjusters, they later became a hallmark of bespoke clothing because it’s more difficult to adjust the sleeve length on a jacket with surgeon’s cuffs, meaning it’s usually not ideal to have them unless you have a jacket that fits you perfectly from the get-go; and something only those in the know would have an understanding of.
Budget-friendly brands caught wind of this popularization, and a machine was employed that could easily add working cuffs to a jacket without the handwork it would traditionally require.
This means that many brands now have this feature standard so they can try to emulate the bespoke experience on a budget or as an additional option you can include when you get a jacket made-to-order or made-to-measure for that bespoke stamp. Some even began putting contrast stitching around the first buttonhole to drive more attention to this addition, making the once-subtle nod not so subtle. So, what was once the hallmark of bespoke clothing can now be a fashion trend.
8. Western Shirts
Western shirts might seem a bit outside classic style, but the two schools of style have more in common than you might initially think. These shirts were prevalent and popular in the 1940s and early 1950s during America’s Cowboy Craze; and again, in the 70s and 80s in certain circles.
There has been a larger cultural interest in the Western aesthetic lately, with many pop stars experimenting with country albums and the rise of Western movies, video games, and TV shows seen over the past couple of decades.
We’re also seeing the sartorial and Western world blend a little, with many sartorial figures embracing items like Western shirts and more tailored outfits, and certain ones can even serve as a trendier OCBD.
Western Wear & Classic Menswear: An Exploration
9. Sweater Polos
Sweater polos had their original heyday in the 1950s when they became a prep staple that emphasized rugged athleticism with a more refined vibe and became a laid-back outfit someone might wear on a casual Friday or outside of the office. They enjoyed a revival in the 1970s when a general interest in comfortable menswear with a more refined aesthetic for the office was in full force at this period.
The current iteration we’re seeing, popularized by brands like Spier & MacKay, is a mixture of 50s and 70s iterations, which draws from the interest of layering and hearkens on that Old Money aesthetic. Typical of Jude Law’s character in The Talented Mr. Ripley, where we’ve seen these sort of shirts paired with sport coats for a truly laid-back appearance when wearing tailoring.
Menswear Expert Reviews The Talented Mr. Ripley
10. Band Collar Or “Grandad Collar” Shirts
Grandad collars are intentionally evocative of a certain vintage appeal and have their roots in the era when a shirt’s collar was commonly separated from its body for more frequent and easy cleaning. These detachable collars were usually held in place with brass, silver, or gold studs.
Shows like Boardwalk Empire and Peaky Blinders helped draw some more attention to the detachable collars, as well as shirts worn without collars attached. However, the style also evolved to its own right with the simple band shape, gaining a regular button. So, if you’re interested in trying this style, avoid a shirt that has an intentional band collar and try the traditional models with proper detachable collars.
11. Spearpoint Collar Shirts
The spearpoint style pops up as a trendy alternative anytime there’s a desire to appear large and in charge, which, given that we’ve seen looser and bulkier silhouette return, only helps the spearpoint make more sense as a complimentary piece since the more triangular and longer collar both draw more attention to and help to elongate the face.
This style was commonly seen throughout the mid-1930s, 1940s, and late 1960s, and even extreme examples throughout the 1970s—and we mean extreme. Nowadays, it’s being increasingly employed by trendier brands like Suit Supply, which, to us, signals that we might start to see the industry take note and cycle back to this style once again.
12. Collar Jewelry
The perennial interest in bling in fashion has led to an increasing popularity of men’s collar jewelry even with classic style. The good news is: There are already plenty of ways to incorporate this idea as more vintage sellers love to incorporate bits of collar jewelry into outfits.
Collar jewelry was first popularized in the early 20th century as a practical tool to ensure a neat appearance, and the shift to more comfortable, softer collars meant it was harder to keep tie knots neatly in place. It also enjoyed an initial revival during an accessories renaissance after World War II, when men who were in regulation uniform were free to wear what they wanted; with actors like Fred Astaire having a soft spot for the style.
Fashion-forward icon
Sammy Davis Jr.
Collar jewelry had another revival during the men’s jewelry craze of the late 1960s to 1970s, where more fashion-forward icons like Sammy Davis, Jr. would incorporate accessories like necklaces and challenge and norms on what would normally be paired with classic style.
Nowadays, there are even things like collar clips, which are more accessible than the more specially focused collar pins, and other types of collar jewelry. If you’re going for a strictly classic look, steer clear of the trendier, bulkier styles with chains and the like. But, as always, you do you.
Fort Belvedere
Silver Collar Clip for Narrow Spread Collars
Fort Belvedere
Rose Gold Collar Clip for Narrow Spread Collars
Fort Belvedere
Gold Collar Clip for Narrow Spread Collars
13. Bigger Watches With Square Dials
Watch size trends come and go. Whether it’s small dials, big dials, gold and silver, square or round, and, currently, it’s a big and square dial that’s in; and it plays into both the big and the bold silhouettes currently in vogue that go alongside relatively showier watches.
It’s important to remember that all watch choices we mentioned are still classic. So, go with what you like most and don’t worry about what’s most trendy since all of these styles will rotate in and out of the spotlight all the time; and if you’re looking for more watch content, our playlist has plenty of options for you.
Nomos Tangente Watch Review
14. Top Coats and Overcoats
It’s no secret that overcoats are great choices during colder seasons. Nothing else can give you such a bold and elegant look when paired properly in the fall, winter, and early spring. They’re most on-trend as part of the layering associated with Old Money right now. But, also, as a Quiet Luxury piece because they’re such a big ticket item that tends to appear as a relatively plain and simple layering piece in current styles.
What’s specifically popular is seeing overcoats mixed with casual wear more recently in ads for Loro Piana, who are heavily associated with these trends and have more monochromatic or tonal looks with a top coat paired with just a turtleneck, sweater, or t-shirt. While the combination of these pieces is considered trendy, the pieces themselves are still classic and can be rearranged to reflect that.
15. Creative Formal Attire
There have been plenty of periods of creativity that have snuck into formal attire. Think most prominently of the Peacock Revolution of the 1960s and ’70s. But, interestingly, most of these styles—at least, superficially—sought to hearken back to the early ages when fops and royal courts would embrace more colorful and eccentric styles.
Turnbull & Asser recently showcased the return of ruffled evening shirt styles, which can be paired with equally iconic drooping butterfly bow ties.
These looks are championed by brands like Tom Ford, who has always had a soft spot for the 70s formal wear, but can also be seen from other brands like Suit Supply. I personally enjoy a bit of creativity in my formal attire—under the proper circumstances, of course—as I love to introduce unique elements like custom-decorated evening slippers into my creative formal attire ensembles.
But, of course, for the rules and regs of traditional Black Tie and White Tie, our guides have you covered.
Outfit Rundown
For my outfit today, I wore a sport coat and it has a big Prince-of-Wales print on it. I absolutely love this. And I wore a textured polo underneath. This also kind of goes into what we spoke of today, where polos kind of became a leisure and kind of casual thing. And for my trousers, I decided to go with an off-white, linen trouser. It’s still kind of hot.
On my feet, I’m wearing a pair of brown leather loafers. For accessories, I wore a Fort Belvedere pocket square and, on my wrist, I am wearing a Timex Marlin Automatic. For my fragrance today, I am wearing Blue Suede Shoes from our Roberto Ugolini collection.
For this fragrance and others, as well as this pocket square and other menswear accessories, make sure to check out the Fort Belvedere shop.
Conclusion
Trends come and go, but classic style is forever! Let us know in the comments which of your favorite trends you would like to see make a comeback.
FAQ
What defines classic menswear trends?
Classic menswear trends are those that have stood the test of time, transcending generations while maintaining their appeal and elegance. These include garments like tailored suits, Oxford shoes, trench coats, and timeless patterns such as stripes and plaids.
How have these classic trends influenced contemporary menswear?
Contemporary menswear has drawn heavily from classic styles, often reinterpreting them with modern twists. Designers may alter fits, introduce new materials or mix traditional patterns with bolder colors to update the looks for current tastes.
Are there any risks in mixing classic and contemporary elements?
The key is balance. It’s possible to create a stylish ensemble by mixing elements, but it requires an understanding of harmonizing different pieces without clashing. Mixing a classic blazer with a contemporary graphic tee can be effective if done tastefully.
Is it possible to follow trends and still maintain a classic style?
Absolutely! The key is to adopt trending colors, patterns, or textures with classic cut garments to keep your wardrobe grounded in traditional menswear, yet fresh and up-to-date.